Breakdown
Climber: Hans Ma 6’2”/-1
Wall Angle: 5° Overhang > Flat
Holds: Decoy Schist Series, MW Volumes, Rockwerx Volumes
RIC: Risk 5, Intensity 2, Complexity 2
The goal for this boulder was to create movement that revolved around insecure foot placements and balance. Risk is high because the crux move consists of dynamically shifting weight over a smear foot. This puts the climber in a situation where if they do not weight and position their body properly, they can slip. Intensity is present because of the contact and core strength required to stop the body’s momentum after the dynamic movement. Complexity comes in the form of slight nuances in body positioning to set up for the crux move. This can be seen in how inward the feet are pointed and how to square the hips before jumping.
Influence/Aesthetic:
The theme of this climb revolves around insecurity. It can be difficult for climbers to overcome feelings of hesitancy depending on when and how they are introduced in a boulder. The objective was to present a risky sequence that was repeatedly approachable so the user can discern differences in their approach and learn quickly through trial and error. The first move of the boulder is distinctly easier than the second but introduces elements of discomfort immediately, shifting the climber into an analytical mindset from the beginning. Aesthetically, the boulder offers contrast through the overwhelming amount of foot options but a scarcity of handholds. This gives a visual cue to how footwork is the key to success.
Hold Selection:
Extending the profile of the wall was crucial to making the sequences on this climb work. The initial angle where the climber pulls on is slightly overhanging, which would make a no-hands sequence impossible. Stacking the lower volumes with a high large hold increases the profile of the wall so that the climber can stand without their hips being pushed out. The volumes also add the insecurity of not having distinct foot placements. This gives users options but still challenges them to find the most functional body positions.
Press the Palm
Hans begins by instepping with his left foot to push his body leftward and create traction against his hands to establish.
He brings his right hand upward, which starts to shift his body back right. Flipping his left hand to a palm keeps his weight pushed leftward.
The opposing forces of his hands keep him stable and allow his left leg to straighten creating space for his right foot to raise.
Slow It Down
Hans uses his right hand to pull himself inward and shift his weight over his right foot.
As he stands up, Hans smears his hands on the wall to maintain balance as he adjusts his feet to square his hips.
Feel It Out
Hans places a high right foot on the next volume. This provides a point to pivot his weight around and begin shifting his body.
He moves his torso down and right to gain the next right hand. This allows him to slightly adjust his feet and point them more inward.
Trust the Foot
Hans sinks low into his hips and extends his legs while pulling his weight over his right foot to generate dynamic momentum towards the finish.
Final Thoughts
I found this boulder a bit difficult to set because I was not thrilled with the initial volume placement. We usually do not cluster volumes so low on the wall because they often can be grabbed or stepped on for multiple climbs. This can have a tendency to cause all of the climbs in the surrounding area to climb somewhat similarly. I spent a long time placing these volumes to avoid this, but there were no definitive lines that presented themselves after the final configuration. It took a bit of trial and error during the setting process to draft a climb that combined the volumes with the risky theme I had in mind. It was rewarding to try something new with volumes and open my mind to some new possibilities of placement.