Breakdown

Climber: Ayman Marei 5’8”/+0

Holds: Morpho Huecos, Flathold Tsunami, Decoy Minimalist, Rock Candy Buckets, Teknik Deep Pockets, Metolius Basic Pockets

This week’s post is a bit different as it is featuring a route. I generally approach setting ropes from a different mindset than boulders as they tend to have different areas of focus. I’ll be modifying the format of this post to highlight a few of the qualities I like to focus on when setting a route.

Consistency

Route grades can be tricky to hit as it is impossible to maintain the same difficulty for every move. However, it is possible to fluctuate between easier and harder sections to find a median. It can be useful to put rests before or after crux sections to give the climber time to rest and plan for the next few moves. It is also important to consider how changes in wall angle throughout the route will impact difficulty via steepness. While engaging sequencing is valuable, too much complexity can contribute to additional fatigue. Sudden difficulty jumps or mentally taxing sequences can take the climber out of their “flow state”. Ideally, a commercial route offers an experience that is easy to practice but challenging to master.

Fun and Flow

Climbing is supposed to be fun. However, fun does not necessarily equate to getting to the top of the wall. Movement is the definitive factor for enjoyment, but keeping it varied can be challenging when given a higher stretch of wall to set. There are many ways to add depth to a generic left-right-left-right hand sequence. The easiest way to do this lies in the position of the climber’s lower body. Laterally repositioning the climber’s hips, legs, and feet gives another axis to manipulate the climber’s upward trajectory. Combining lower body movement with directional hand holds can encourage multiple movements in a small space. These small nuances help to keep the climber mentally and physically engaged and prevent stale movement.

Progression

Setting progressive isn’t a hard and fast rule, but It can contribute to a positive perception of a route. If a climber experiences the hardest part of the route at the bottom, they are often more fearful of falling which can cause them to over-grip and fatigue. Easing climbers into the route can give them time to acclimate their mental and physical space. This also provides a more distinct tracker of progress. If the climb spikes in difficulty in multiple places throughout, it can make redpoint attempts inconsistent. A progressive setting can also help climbers improve their strategy and approach to the route as a whole if they can plan for a consistent increase in difficulty throughout.

Final Thoughts

It’s surprising to think this is my first time posting about a route. I spend the majority of my time hanging around on ropes during the week as we only spend one day setting boulders. Setting routes is exceptionally time-consuming, especially when you are using fiberglass and volumes. Hauling systems can be complicated and cumbersome, so setting a route with these types of holds does not happen all the time. Fortunately, we rent a lift for our lead cave area so we have an easier time setting climbs with a higher density of features. In my opinion, setting ropes is the hardest part of routesetting. The physical and mental labor required to haul all the holds up and create an experience that maintains varied movement for 40+ feet is no easy task. However, I find that this extra effort makes setting a positively received route all the more rewarding.

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