Breakdown
Climber: Sebi Krzaczek 5’10”/-2
Wall Angle: 10° Overhang > Flat
Holds: Teknik Big Tall Round, Teknik No Shadow Tip Toes, eGrips Main Dish, Thrive Fiberglass Macros, MW Base R75/ Rockwerx Slipstream
RIC: Risk 5, Intensity 3, Complexity 1
The intention of this boulder was to have the user change gears throughout climbing. The climb starts out with a dynamic movement, followed by slower, technical movement on slopers, culminating in a second jump to the finish. The two lower percentage dynos bring the risk to a high rating. Intensity is average because the crux moves require more commitment than pure strength. Complexity is ranked low on this boulder because there is little movement variation and few beta nuances. This design replicates a competition format boulder, where climbers encounter more defined fall points before reaching the top.
Influence/Aesthetic:
This specific movement and wall angle is something I had wanted to combine for some time. I felt using the changing wall angles to create two similar but directionally different dynos would challenge a climber’s ability to replicate movement within the same climb. The linear volume stack and fiberglass features create a visual focal point. While the start and finish help to create visual contrast, with less visible objects in each area, they are still tied together by mirroring the start feet and finish hands.
Dyno #1
Sebi is able to gain momentum for the jump by positioning his body completely left of the start holds and using his foot to push off the wall at his static apex.
The first point of contact on the next hold is Sebi’s right hand; his rightward momentum and directionality of the hold make it impossible to hold with one hand.
Once Sebi grabs the hold with his right hand he is able to regain partial control of his trajectory. This allows him to bring his left hand to the hold to begin gaining stability.
Sebi’s lower body still has momentum; he is able to slow this by tensing his core and by smearing his left foot on the wall to fully stop on his swingback.
Shifting Gears
Sebi begins navigating this section by swapping his feet on the volume to move to the first sloper. This allows him to begin shifting his body weight under it to gain a more positive grip.
He matches the sloper crossed because he is unable to reach the far end of it with his left foot on the volume. Swapping back to his right foot allows him to unwind his hands.
Now that his weight is fully shifted rightwards, he is able to move his foot to the second handhold and progress to the second sloper.
Setting Up
Sebi continues to keep a rightward body position to keep his body weight under the direction of the slopers for the most positive grip.
Once Sebi gains the final sloper he reaches a near max vertical extension; this causes him to swap his feet and bring them up to the highest volume to release his extension and continue moving forward.
He then begins to move horizontally by bringing his body above the volume and using his left foot to pull him towards the next small crimp.
Dyno #2
Sebi swaps his feet to bring him almost directly under the finish hold before he jumps. Similar to the first dyno, he begins by rocking his body in the opposite direction of his jump.
This jump differs from the first because his legs are more extended. This allows him to calibrate speed and distance easier because he does not need to travel far for maximum leg exension.
He pulls into the left hand to gain horiziontal momentum, and he keeps his feet on until they are fully extended to reduce the time he is airborne.
Sebi leads with his right hand, but is unable to match the finish directly because it is blocked. However, he uses the second sloper to slow his momentum and gain more control of his lower body by having a second point of contact.
Final Thoughts
It is often difficult to set a boulder like this in a commercial setting. Moves like this take up large amounts of wall real estate, which can affect the other boulders around it. However, this boulder worked out particularly well because it left space gaps on either side and provided volumes for other climbs to trend through (some climbs are pictured and others were added after the filming of the video). Although dynos can be frustrating for climbers, it is an important skill to be taught, especially with the advent of modern climbing gyms. They are now something that is commonly encountered at a variety of grades and styles. However, it is important to make them feel attainable. A dyno early in a boulder allows climbers to try it multiple times, figuring out how to gauge distance and body positioning with each attempt. This boulder was designed with the sequence following the first jump being less intense than the jump itself, to not immediately throw a second crux at the climber. This setting strategy promotes progress, while still creating memorable movements to overcome.