Breakdown

Climber: Eddie Pandolfino 6’0”/-2

Wall Angle: Roof > 20°  Overhang > Flat > 5° Slab

Holds: Flathold Tsunami, Flathold Borderline, Rock Candy Blockus 3XL, Teknik Geeks, Teknik Les Amis 

RIC: Risk 1, Intensity 5, Complexity 4

• The defining quality of this boulder is the high number of moves packed into a small space. Intensity is high because of the sustained difficulty and endurance required to complete the climb. There are a wide variety of grips, body positions, and techniques that the climber is tested on throughout the boulder. However, there is no definitive “crux” move, rather a progressive build in difficulty from fatigue. Complexity also ranks high on this boulder because of the nuanced body positions and techniques required to progress through each section of the climb. If the user is not proficient in toe hooking, high feet, and core tension they will have a difficult time holding the body positions for long periods of time.

Influence/Aesthetic:

• The inspiration for this climb came from a desire to use the long rail features in a way that was eye catching. Grouping the rails in threes covered abnormally large surface areas of the wall. The fibgerglass holds were spaced inbetween the rails to round out the composition. This is an example of a maximalist approach; The climb appears to engulf the wall and sequences are not apparent from a cursory glance. This encourages climbers to try subtle variation in their approach due to the abundant number of options and hold surface area. Micro-adjustments could make or break successful attempts.

Hold Selection:

• The large size of a majority of the holds help to compliment the maximalist theme. Often, a big hold is complimented with a big surface area. This gives climbers options on where to grab which can help to create accessibility. Additionally, the fiberglass holds have a high depth, which helps to recycle them for more intricate foot movements (heel hooks, toe hooks) as climbers move past them. This improves climbers ability to critically think about using holds in multiple ways for efficient climbing.

First Steps

• The climber begins by creating tension between their feet and the undercling to establish.

• Moving the right hand up releases this constricted position but the climber needs a higher point of tension to release the left hand.

• Setting a left toe hook allows the climber to pull in their weight fully against their right hand and move their left hand higher.

Ride the Wave

• The climber begins to move their hands leftward which begins shifting their torso and hips.

• Flagging the right foot and alternating toe hooks helps to keep the climber’s hips from falling out of alignment with their hands.

• Eventually the climber finds themselves with double toe hooks to maintain core tension as the hands get progressively worse.

Catch and Release

• Once the climber gains the fiberglass hold with their right hand, they are in a position of extension that holds them back from moving horizontally or vertically.

• Releasing the toe hooks while utilizing a left hand undercling keeps the climber’s shoulders and core tensioned and prevents their weight from falling too far outward on the sloping right hand.

• Quickly bringing the right foot up brings tension back to the climber’s right hand allowing a match.

Changing Lanes

• The climber gastons the second fiberglass hold in the cluster to center their hips and create a balanced midline to move their feet to the left.

• Left facing feet allow the climber to push enough weight into their right hand to release weight from their left hand and bring it to match.

• Building the feet to the first fiberglass hold lets the climber progress upward and lean their body farther right.

Shake It Out

• Leaning far right and gaining a far left foot provide a positive rest position for the climber.

• This sets the climber up to cross their right hand high across their body to the next rail and begin walking their feet back right to push their body back leftward to align under the right facing rail.

Taking the Top

• Extending the right leg further tensions the right hand and opens the chest to bring the left hand up to match.

• A higher left foot and slight leftward body adjustment allows the climber to gain the finish.

Final Thoughts

Overall I was quite pleased with how this boulder turned out. Although it was born from a visually creative vein, it functioned well with many of the holds getting to be used in multiple ways. It also felt easy to set with each idea flowing seamlessly into the next. In retrospect I do wish that I could’ve set the boulder without using any footholds. I feel that they take away from the visual presentation of the boulder and it could’ve been possible to ditch them if a few handholds were shifted a bit. Additionally, it could’ve been nice to get more use out of the top rail stack as the bottom two are only used to bump but are usually ignored. As a total package this is one of the boulders I have been most satisfied with in recent weeks.