Breakdown
Climber: Vini Campos 5’9”/+2
Wall Angle: Flat
Holds: Flathold Revival, Teknik Screw-On Tiny Feet
RIC: Risk 5, Intensity 4, Complexity 2
This boulder is designed to give climbers a high tension, methodical experience on a flat wall. Risk is high because the feet on the boulder are either small or slopey, which causes climbers to be conscious of precise foot positioning and adjustment. Intensity comes in the form of directional sloping hands and micro-edges that need constant body tension and balance to navigate. Complexity is low but still present due to the small nuances in body positioning required when shifting weight through the feet.
Influence/Aesthetic:
We began this particular setting day by dividing up the fiberglass holds available into their matching sets, with this specific one only having two large sloping holds. These holds were placed first to create a center point for the boulder to revolve around. The small screw-on holds are used to contrast the larger sloping holds in size and grip type. When viewing the boulder it seems impossible because of the low visibility screw-ons complimenting the color of the wall, but closer inspection reveals the path to completion.
Hold Choice:
As mentioned previously, the large fiberglass holds for this boulder were assigned to be utilized together. This choice came from the slopers having low positivity. I wanted to pair this with the small screw-on holds to have a climb that tests finger strength on varying grips. These screw-on holds are usually utilized as feet, but placing two or three of them together creates a longer, thin surface to grab. Combining these elements with directional feet adds nuance through movement, avoiding a one-dimensional theme of grabbing “bad” holds.
Flip Sides
Vini begins the boulder by positioning his body right of the start hold while flagging his right foot. This gives him opposition against his left to establish.
After moving his left hand to the second sloper to gaston, Vini is put in a position where he has to use his shoulders to shift his weight leftward.
Flipping his right hand to press allows him to push his body over his left foot and lean completely into the left sloper.
He brings his right foot up to hand-foot match. This relieves weight from his right hand so he can release it and match the left sloper.
Hold on Tight
Vini pulls inward and begins shifting his weight over his right foot to gain the next left hand crimp.
The small size of the crimp combined with his compact body positioning creates a difficult position to move out of.
Vini flips his left hand and begins pressing while straightening his right leg. This allows him to pull his body in line with his right foot and begin standing up.
Spring Up
Vini brings his left foot up for stability when reaching the left hand gaston; gaining this hold opens his shoulders and turns his chest squares to the wall.
He adjusts his right foot to turn his leg slightly inward so his trajectory will be straight up when he begins moving.
Releasing both hands in conjunction with straightening both legs moves him dynamically to the finish.
Final Thoughts
This boulder went in an experimental direction during the setting process. I wanted to see how “bad” I could make the holds while still producing an engaging sequence. This was accomplished, but in turn, this manufactures a boulder that gets polarizing reactions from climbers. A word my team member used to describe the minute right-hand crimp was “gross” and the general reaction to the boulder was “that looks scary”. Risk and discomfort need to be introduced strategically; proper amounts at each grade level ensure that climbers begin pushing their perceived ability of possibility.