Breakdown
Climber: Ray Hansen 5’7”/+3
Wall angle: 60° Overhang
Holds: eGrips Stealth Series, eGrips Main Dish, eGrips Dish Power Pinch, Cheeta Boomerangs
RIC: Risk 3, Complexity 3, Intensity 5
This boulder was set for a youth training camp and was assigned as a complex, power boulder. Intensity was the main focus and this was achieved through the steepness of the wall angle and the low positivity of the crimps and slopers. Complexity is moderate because the boulder is relatively easy to read but the inversion movement requires nuance to execute correctly. Risk is introduced through the low percentage dynamic jump in the middle of the boulder that can only be controlled by a precise hand flip to stop momentum.
Influence/Aesthetic:
The form of this boulder is rooted in function. The hold sets alternate throughout the climb to test the climbers in switching different grip types. The sloping set of holds is placed in the middle of the boulder to create a breakpoint but they also serve to create the inversion. These slopers are impossible to hold without feet, which guides the climber to overhead movement. This sequence was not planned and was viewed as a potential option. However, climbing feet first was the most intuitive option during forerunning
Hold Selection:
A majority of the holds for this boulder compliment the assignment of power and intensity. The steepness of the wall makes any hold that is put on it significantly worse. The goal for this boulder was to reward the climber for pure power, and their ability to maintain proper body tension on small or bad holds. The Cheeta boomerangs work well for this because they are barely incut, which still makes them usable on such an intense overhang. The Stealth series slopers work well because although they are flat, they offer a wide surface area for the hand to grab, which can improve traction.
Ride the Heel
Ray begins by setting a right heel hook. This sets his hips below his hands and prevents them from falling too far out from the wall.
As he begins tracking his hands through the crimps, Ray’s body begins to shift over his heel until it is centered.
Go Big
Once Ray’s hips are centered he brings his left foot up to the start, which releases pressure from his heel hook.
He sinks his hips and drives his weight over his left foot in conjunction with pulling through with his arms in order to generate momentum to the left-hand sloper.
Ray’s legs swing out due to the steepness of the wall. To prevent his weight from being pulled too far outward, he flips his right hand to the undercling crimp to compress and stop his momentum.
Clock’s Ticking
Ray swings his feet above his head to create more traction against the left hand sloper.
Centering his legs above his head allows him to create enough pressure to match, and he walks his legs farther right to transition leftward towards the next sidepull.
Bend the Knee
Ray knee-bars against the first sloper to release pressure from his hands. This allows him to bring his right hand up to the sidepull.
His hips are still located far to the right. He sets a heel to center his weight and match with his left hand.
Big Bumpin’
The high heel and matched hands put Ray in a restricted position. He begins to move his left hand outward to the crimps. This opens his chest to the wall, while subsequent bumps create more space for his body to maneuver.
He readjusts his heel during this sequence to keep his hips centered under his left hand and prevent his body from getting too extended.
Taking the Top
Once Ray reaches the third crimp his hips are open enough to move his left hand to the undercling sloper and release weight from his heel.
He swaps his right foot to a toe and drives his weight over it while pulling in with his right hand.
Ray releases his right hand and pushes off of his right leg at the apex of his upward movement to jump to the finish.
Final Thoughts
Setting a competition boulder requires a much different approach than a commercial one. The specificity of the assignment leaves less creative flexibility when setting and forerunning. Each boulder has a purpose in the round and it is important that there is cohesion between the abilities being tested. This boulder worked well for separation, with a few competitors getting to zone in a different number of attempts and only one topping. I was excited to get the inversion to work as this type of rotation is generally uncommon, and was a fun movement to test the climbers on. Setting this competition simulation was a refreshing change of pace from commercial setting and is something I would like to do more often.