Breakdown

Climber: Eddie Pandolfino 6’0”/-2

Wall Angle: 5° Overhang > Flat > 5° Overhang

Holds: Decoy Minimalist Jugs, BluePill Fiber Impressions, Flathold Superstar, Rubberholds Sandstone

Influence/Aesthetic:

The main concept for this selection of boulders was to use the volumes in slightly different ways for each one. There are no screw-on holds attached to the volumes. This helps to maintain a cleaner aesthetic and prevent screw-ons from one boulder impeding the usage of the volumes for another. This can often become a problem in commercial setting when there is a high quota of climbs set through volumes. There are a few aesthetic concepts in play for this grouping. The starts and finishes are clustered together giving the climber a strong visual cue for the start and end points of each boulder. There are also heavy uses of clustering and minimalism, as half of the boulders feature a heavy conglomerate of holds. However, the other half of the climbs take a minimalist approach with there being only two handholds outside of the volumes.

The Dyno

The objective for the dyno was to make it high-risk and moderate complexity. The climber must utilize the flat surfaces of the volumes as a launch pad to reach the finish hold. This can be harder than it appears as foot placement and momentum are key to success and can take a few tries to nail down. The most important aspect of this particular dyno is generating enough momentum to step the right foot through to the higher volume. If the climber does not gauge their trajectory correctly, they will fall too far from the wall to gain the finish.

The Funk

The green boulder uses the volumes to block holds and constrict the climber’s position. Creating discomfort adds to the intensity and complexity of this climb. The climber must constantly reposition their body to gain opposition on the holds because they are often facing the “wrong” way for the climber to grab. Offering the climber positions to think and map out their sequence while on the wall helps to alleviate some of the risks that are associated with the uncomfortable aspects of this boulder; an example of slow and steady wins the race.

The Weird

The first reaction at the sight of this boulder is, “Does this go?” The sequence for this climb emphasizes the use of the volumes in multiple ways. They are used as feet to stabilize the starting position and hands to release the climber from being nearly stuck in a perch. While the volumes are nearly impossible to use as hands, the high profile of the starting hold places the climber’s hips centered and far enough away from the wall that a minor amount of friction can be gained.

The Gross

This boulder focuses on utilizing the volumes as large feet. This helps to make challenging holds usable at a lower grade while offering a high-intensity experience. The volumes provide a large platform for the climber to maneuver through the first sloping undercling sequence. The feet stay conistent, but the hands change to crimps on the second half of the boulder. These crimps are especially bad because they are blocked, but much of the climber’s weight is channeled into their legs. This encourages the climber to use a bit of grit to overcome this final sequence.

Final Thoughts

Sharing concepts and themes between boulders in a specific area is a concept that I think works well in practice. It can be a valuable tool in teaching climbers techniques and nuance in a progressive manner. This gives newer climbers an entry point to gain confidence in new abilities, while advanced climbers can hone their craft and experience nuanced situations. One gym that utilizes this style particularly well is @arkose.massay. They will often use groupings of duplicate holds on different climbs that are employed in related ways. Instilling multiple characteristics in features, whether it be volumes, holds, or an entire wall can develop climbers’ critical thinking skills and broaden the realm of what is possible. Exposure can be an integral step in reaching new possibilities.