Breakdown
Climber: Eddie Pandolfino 6’0”/-2
Wall angle: Flat
Holds: Rockwerx Shim, Teknik GT Series, Decoy Schist
RIC: Risk 4, Intensity 1, Complexity 2
This boulder was designed to give a high risk experience at a mid-grade. Climbers at this experience level are often still perfecting how to navigate climbing on volumes. Risk is high because all of the hands and feet are slopey and require precise body positioning to feel secure. There is a mild element of complexity because of there being multiple options for reading and executing the sequence. Intensity is low on this boulder because the emphasis is on technical ability and not physical strength.
Influence/Aesthetic
The theme of this climb revolved around the placement of the volumes. The arrangement created a cascading visual feature on the wall, but it also needed to serve a functional purpose. There were a few climbs that used these volumes and they all climbed in and out of them in different ways. Climbing in from the right side lends itself to pressing with the hands, and weight shifts through the feet. The slopers above the volumes were added to assist in producing these types of movements and prevent the hold spacing on the boulder from looking bottom heavy.
Hold Choice:
While many of the holds on the climb are the volumes, the additional ones were chosen to compliment the insecure and slow nature of the climb. There are a few larger holds in the beginning that are blocked by the volumes to reduce usable space and make them tricky to step on. The slopers in the second half are difficult to pull on and are instead used to help shift the body into better positions to use the legs. This solidifies a theme throughout the entirety of the boulder.
Starting Shift
The climber starts the boulder leaning rightwards. However, the next holds are on the left side of the boulder.
Weight must be shifted across the climber’s center leftwards. This allows the third volume to be gained as a right hand and the second volume to be used as an intermediate to stabilize.
Once shifted, feet are raised higher until the right foot is on the positive side of the start hold. This positions the climber in the direction of the next slopers.
Press and Pull
Weight is moved over the left foot until the next right hand is gained.
The subsequent holds are all positioned to only be grabbed with the right hand. The climber must flip their left hand and begin pressing to gain height.
Once the left arm begins extending, the next slopers can be reached. The hand tension relieves weight from the feet and they can begin walking up.
Stand Up
The left and right feet are raised high enough to press the left hand fully and gain the final sloper.
This hold is positive so the climber can pull in to shift a majority of their weight rightwards and bring their left hand and left foot higher.
The top volume now serves as a high profile foothold. The climber now must open their body leftwards to begin moving over their left foot.
Slow and Steady
The hips and chest are brought square to the wall; this allows the right foot to be brought in next to the left, creating stability for the weight shift.
Shuffling the feet over and getting the left fingertips on the finish hold creates enough tension that the right hand can be unweighted and brought over to match the finish.
Final Thoughts
Boulders that rank high in risk can often be intimidating or uncomfortable for the user. Initial discomfort can lead the climber into believing that they are incapable of doing the climb or that something feels “wrong.” At earlier grades, it is crucial that these feelings are quelled by giving climbers options. This can come in the form of larger feet to step on, intermediate hands, or directional cues. If climbers are given choices on how to navigate an uncomfortable situation, they can become more adept at understanding what does, and doesn’t, work for them in nuanced scenarios.