Breakdown
Climber: Nick Conklin 5’7”/+4
Wall Angle: 5° Overhang
Holds: Morpho Hemisphere, Morpho 3-Globe, Morpho Orbitals, Teknik No Shadow Tip Toes, Dimension Half Arrow Symmetric
Regionals Info:
This particular boulder was set for a regional championship event. Competitors are climbing within the USAC competition format. There are 4 boulders in the round and each climber has 4 minutes to attempt each boulder with no prior knowledge of it. Points are awarded for reaching the zone hold and achieving a top of the boulder. Attempts are also tracked to serve as another separation metric. The category that climbed this boulder was Male/Female Youth D (ages 8-11). Results for this event can be found here and detailed information about the format are available in the USAC Rulebook.
RIC: Risk 3, Intensity 4, Complexity 2
The assignment for this boulder was to set a dyno that came in at moderate difficulty. Risk is present on this boulder because of the dyno and the committing mantle movement in the second half. Intensity is ranked highest because of the strength needed to control the dynamic movement at the beginning and the pressing sequences that follow. Complexity is ranked on the lower end because the dyno and mantle have few nuances, while foot and hand placements are guided through screw-on holds.
Aesthetic/Influence:
A majority of the influence on this boulder came from the desire to create a contrasting feeling for the climber. The dyno at the start pushes the climber into a committing mindset, knowing that they have to overcome a distinct obstacle. The second half of the boulder rewards a different skill set, one that is focused more on body positioning and calculated movement. The holds in the first half of the climb being distanced from the ones in the second half serves as a visual representation of this variance.
Hold Choice:
The holds on this boulder were chosen to give the climber room for readjustment while attempting moves. The pink fiberglass holds give multiple options through their large surface areas, allowing climbers of different sizes to choose positions that work best for them. Additionally, this helps to offer a more balanced experience for all climbers because all surface areas on these holds are the same positivity. The gray volumes have a dissimilarity by having their best surfaces marked with small, screw-on holds.
Jump Around
Nick begins the boulder by using the underclings to situate his weight on top of the large diamond volume.
This puts him in a position where he cannot reach the next hold and his feet are fully weighted and unable to move.
He releases his hands while simultaneously pushing with his legs to generate momentum. This small jump propels him to grab the next hold.
Feel It Out
Nick begins to traverse out to the farther volume stack but he begins to lose his foot placement on the start hold.
Once he gains the farther volumes, Nick is able to lean his body rightwards and throw a left heel hook to stabilize.
This new point of contact for his foot allows him to move his hands farther right, widening his body’s span.
Hips In
Nick’s body weight is leaned drastically rightward. He begins to bring his left hand back towards his left foot to center his body below the volumes.
Once centered, he can begin to engage his right hand and left heel to bring his hips up and inward to gain height.
Reaching the next large left-hand slice alleviates weight from his right hand, which allows him to begin readjusting it.
Hard Pressed
Once Nick’s right hand is fully flipped, he begins pressing into it to bring his hips closer into the wall and his left hand higher on the slice.
His right foot comes up to release pressure from his right hand. This lets him begin shifting his body under the finish hold.
The finish hold has no grabbable surface so it must be pressed into. Nick utilizes the opposition created between his hands and feet to match the finish.
Final Thoughts
Making climbers recalibrate during a boulder is an effective way to get separation during a competition. Although competition climbers are well-rounded, it is unlikely they are equally skilled in all aspects. Emphasizing two contrasting styles in the same boulder not only challenges competitors on two unique styles but also tests their proficiency in switching between them. If climbers are not able to adapt physically and mentally during the course of a boulder, it will impact their chances of achieving a top.