Breakdown
Climber: Eddie Pandolfino 6’0”/-2
Wall Angle: Flat > 5° Overhang > Flat
Holds: Flathold Superstar, Flathold Tokyo 2020 TK11
RIC: Risk 2, Intensity 3, Complexity 3
This boulder was designed to test climbers in their ability to adjust body positioning in a small space. There is moderate intensity on this boulder because of the contact strength needed to control the jump start and the physical effort required to attain correct body positioning. Complexity is ranked comparably because there are few visible cues for foot placements. This can make finding balance and positioning difficult on early attempts. Risk is present because of insecure foot placements and smearing.
Influence/Aesthetic:
The theme for this climb was minimalism. The boulder looks aesthetically and functionally simple but the climber is given one path to completion without extraneous options. I placed the Flathold Superstar (start hold) to create a center point for the climber to move around with the screw-on crimps assisting. Users are put in a compact position which can be challenging to move around in if not approached correctly. This creates an experience that is easy to read from the ground, but difficult to adjust to while climbing.
Hold Selection:
The high profile of the Superstar creates a feature that can be recycled multiple ways for hands and feet. This allows climbers to move upward off of it in the beginning and use it as a foot later because of the linear nature of this boulder. However, the hold extends so far from the wall that it is difficult to navigate around it. The crimps are necessary to circle the climber’s body around the Superstar so they can properly reutilize it.
Run It Up
A running start helps generate momentum when jumping to establish on the start hold.
Feet are used to smear on the wall and create opposition. This allows the first left-hand crimp to be gained.
As the feet are walked higher, the right hand is moved up slightly on the start hold which assists the bump to the second left-hand crimp.
Battle the Box
The left hand is now so high that the only foot option is the start hold. This encourages a hand-heel match.
This creates a constricted position because 3 points of contact are adjacent to each other. This is relieved by the right hand helping to release weight from the heel hook so the left foot can swing leftward. This centers weight above the hold.
With weight centered, the right heel hook can be switched to a toe. This gives additional mobility to move out of the compact position.
Slow and Stable
The finish hold is able to be gained but it is slightly sloped, making it difficult to match.
By flagging the left foot, weight shifts farther over the right toe. The balance provided from this focal point lets the climber release their left hand and match.
Final Thoughts
Minimalist boulders are a useful tool to test climbers on specific movements. However, it can be difficult to make them accessible. In a commercial gym environment, fairness is invaluable to providing climbers with an enjoyable experience. Creating movements that revolve around breaking out of restricted positions is useful in introducing equity. This creates situations where the distance between holds is not the defining factor of user experience.