Breakdown
Climber: Cassie Sciortino 4’11”/+6
Wall Angle: 5° Overhang
Holds: eGrips Bubble Wrap Crescent Rails, Decoy Holds Minmalist Swell Jug
RIC: Risk 2, Intensity 4, Complexity 1
The concept for this boulder stemmed from the desire to create something incredibly simple. Intensity became the defining factor. The holds for this boulder are thin for this angle and put someone climbing in this range in a position to test their maximum crimp strength. This essentially works to create a benchmark for progress with this specific grip type. There is a slight element of risk because of the dynamic finish move that requires controlling the climber’s core during a foot cut. Complexity is low on this boulder because the sequence is straightforward with little beta variation.
Influence/Aesthetic:
This climb was born out of necessity; There was little room left to set with other climbs surrounding it but there was a gap in the zone’s grade spread that needed to be filled. While a small space can make it difficult to set something aesthetic, function always comes before form. A basic thematic approach can create something that is easily palatable for climbers and progress can be easily tracked from move to move because of a consistent difficulty throughout. The small aesthetic touch is that all of the holds, with the exception of the finish, are from the same series.
Hold Selection:
When setting a pure intensity boulder, the “goldilocks effect” can come into play. If the holds are too positive climbers could find themselves in the position to skip intended movements. If the holds are too challenging, movement can become too difficult, making it impossible for the climber to shift their body weight into positions that forward their progress. The edges chosen for this boulder are complemented by the slightly steep angle of the wall to keep the climber engaged, but not in a state of struggle. Sufficient finger strength will allow the climber to keep their body controlled and flowing through the boulder.
It’s in the Knees
Cassie begins the boulder by shifting her weight onto her right knee. This lets her establish and bring her left foot off the ground.
As she locks her arms off she is able to shift her weight farther right and gain the next right-hand hold.
Gaining this right hand allows her to readjust her body to midline and straighten her right knee, while matching and moving to the higher right hand lessens weight on her right foot.
Similar but Different
Cassie is now able to raise her left foot to the start hold. This pivots her direction and shifts her hips upward.
She begins to lock off again to shift weight over her left foot until she can control the next left hand.
Quick Swap
After gaining the next left hand Cassie switches her left toe to a right toe. This centers her weight beneath her left hand, providing balance to bring her right hand to match.
She swaps back to a left toe to begin setting up for the next sequence.
Double Drop
Cassie utilizes a slight left drop knee to keep her hips in and shorten the distance to the next right hand.
She brings her right foot back on to center her weight for a match on the second rail. and then raises her left foot to repeat this drop knee sequence to move her left hand to the third rail.
Blast Off
Once Cassie gains the third rail with her left hand she is able to engage her left shoulder enough to stabilize and bring her right foot high to square her hips.
She is now able to match the third rail with this high right foot and begin locking off towards the finish.
Due to the angle of the wall, the hold her hands are on becomes slopey as her body weight shifts above it.
Cassie locks off slowly and then pulls dynamically at her apex in conjunction with pushing off her right foot to gain the finish.
Final Thoughts
Is this boulder straightforward? Yes. Does this boulder serve a purpose? Yes. Is this boulder boring? Maybe. While it often feels like our job as a routesetter is to create grandiose climbing experiences that challenge the way climbers think about movement, sometimes it is the complete opposite of that. Presenting climbers with problems like this could equivocate to giving them their favorite junk food. It is good in moderation, but too much can be a detriment. It is important to give climbers palatable challenges that test them on the baseline of basic skills. However, too much of this will prevent climbers from developing new techniques or working on ones that can use improvement. Indulging in comfort and complacency can become the enemy of growth.