Breakdown
Climber: Sid Pinto 5’9”/+1
Wall angle: 10° Overhang > Flat
Holds: 360 Holds Volcanoes, MW Volumes
RIC: Risk 3, Intensity 2, Complexity 4
The goal for this boulder was to create a minimal three dimensional space for the climber to navigate. Complexity is the main component of this boulder due to it’s vagueness. There are a multitude of places for hand and foot placements but there are only a select number of clues to the intended sequence. There is a moderate amount of risk because of a few insecure balance oriented positions that require the climber to shift their weight around technical foot or hand placements. Intensity is present due to the shoulder strength required for the pressing motions.
Influence/Aesthetic:
This is an extension of the volume stacking boulders I have been working with in recent months. In terms of scale, these are the two largest volumes that effectively (and safely) stacked together while creating something functional. The overall theme of the boulder is minimalist, with the stack taking center stage visually and functionally. While no holds were placed directly above or below the volumes to deconstruct the climb into thirds (beginning, middle, and end). Placing the stack in the middle of the wall creates a focal point for the climb and emphasizes how much the climber will have to utilize it to get to their objective.
Hold Selection:
Profile is the most important element when creating three dimensional boulders. Although the volumes are high profile, the accompanying holds must augment the space in a complimentary way. The 360 Volcanoes work well for this because of their greatly varying sizes. Larger iterations of the volcanoes create stemming sections against the stacked volumes, while smaller versions act as smears to subtly augment the angles of certain surfaces.
Opposites Attract
Sid begins the boulder by using his left leg and right arm to push against each other. These opposing forces help to engage his shoulders and lift his hips off the ground.
As his hips raise closer to the wall his left leg straightens, this allows Sid to decompress his lower body and begin turning outward.
Sid brings his left hand up to square his shoulders and finishes his rotation with both hands pushing onto the volumes.
Scrunch Up
Sid walks his left foot slightly higher and brings his right foot to the bottom of the volume. This sets him into a stemmed position where weight is released from his hands.
He can now move his hands to the top of the volume and begin pulling his weight towards his right foot.
Thread the Needle
A majority of Sid’s weight is driving through his left foot making it difficult to move it.
Crossing his left leg through to the screw-on foot lets his hips center and his legs can begin to straighten.
Sid begins to flip his hands to press once his weight is centered over the volume.
Mega Mantle
Once Sid transitions to almost upright, he is able to take enough weight off his legs to bring his right foot up.
He begins to move in the direction the volume is facing to keep his feet flat for additional surface area and grip.
Placing his hand on the sidewall creates a brief stem to stabilize him and he can bring his left foot up.
Look Ma’ No Hands
Sid turns his chest outward to keep his feet facing downward with the angle of the volume.
He reaches upward to the finish with his right hand and uses his left leg to stem against the sidewall to maintain balance for the finish match.
Breakdown
Keeping routesetting fresh can be difficult. Setting on the same walls with similar holds for extended periods of time can often lead to products that are reminiscent of past creations. Volume stacking has been a stimulating way to explore new movements on wall angles that may not have supported it previously. However, this experimentation often leads to more non-traditional climbing styles. These types of boulders can be labeled as “gimmicky” because they are testing skills outside the norm. As the sport evolves, hyper-dimensional climbing will become more common, similar to how coordinated dynamic movements have become a staple. Moving the needle takes time, but increasing exposure can improve attitudes and acceptance.