Breakdown
Climber: Eddie Pandolfino 6’0”/-2
Wall Angle: 10° Overhang > Flat
Holds: Flathold Thunderbirds, Flathold Superstars, Teknik Cricket
RIC: Risk 2, Intensity 5, Complexity 2
The objective for this boulder was to create a high intensity experience in a short distance. Intensity was increased by introducing a campus sequence in the beginning of the climb, followed by a dynamic movement to slopers in the second half. The climber’s shoulders and core must constantly be engaged to hold tension on the slopers and maintain proper body positioning. Risk is present due to the explosive nature of the movement to the slopers. Body weight must be shifted in a calculated manner to prevent slipping. There are a few advanced techniques (heel-toe cam, drop knee) that are key to performing certain moves effectively; this introduces some complexity.
Influence/Aesthetic:
Conceptually this climb stemmed from my recent interest with setting campus boulders. I decided that it would also be interesting to take an aesthetic and functional twist of setting a boulder in one of the harder circuits with the holds being very close in proximity. This concentrated aesthetic is often exemplified by Yossi (@yossiclimbs) on Instagram. Placing the first fiberglass cluster establishes a strong focal point at eye level. The holds are also overlapped, to portray the illusion that the whole cluster is one connected mass. Stacking the last two holds continues this clustering theme, while filling some of the contrasting empty space above the boulder.
Hold Selection:
Directionally and positivity were key elements of the holds used on this boulder. All of the holds are either placed slightly left or right facing. This puts the climber in a position where resisting this guiding current will alter their hip and shoulder position. In turn, this resistance will make the grip on any of the slopers much worse. This makes it difficult to climb out of sequence because of the particular weight shifting needed to pull through on the slopers. Admittedly, these holds are also quite old and slick at this point, which prevents the climber from “hanging on their skin” to control them; the hands must constantly be engaged.
To the Left
The climber begins by jumping to control the first hold and establish.
Bumping leftward keeps the climber’s hips moving with the direction of the holds. The climber’s legs are used to stabilized and control the leftward momentum.
After reaching the last two pinches, the climber creates enough space to bring their right heel up to the start hold.
Above the Line
A heel toe cam aids in keeping the lower body and core tensioned as the climber crosses back to the next sloper.
Matching and bringing the right hand upward to the crimp lets the climber begin locking off their right arm. This begins to shift their torso and hips upward.
The climber’s heel hook swaps to a toe to gain extra height.
Up and at Em’
The climber’s left side shifts downward slightly to aid in creating upward dynamic momentum.
Pulling inward with the right hand shifts the climber’s weight over their right foot as they reach for the next sloper.
The climber pushes their left foot against the wall to rotate their right hip inward and create space to bring it even higher to the big dish.
Lay it Back
The climber drops their right knee to transition their weight directly under the sloper; this helps to bring the right hand in to match.
Releasing their right foot allows the climber to lay back into the slopers and make the move to the finish.
Final Thoughts
These types of constriction boulders can be difficult for me to forerun. Although it is often advantageous to be a taller climber, fitting into small boxes and moving out of them can be challenging. When testing the climb I opted for a high left foot beta that let me move to the last two slopers static, but this ended up pushing my hips too far away from the wall to control them. One of our longtime members, Tomomi (@mix_royce), was able to use this beta to complete the boulder. While it can be difficult to achieve, it is always rewarding to have boulders with two equally challenging and accessible options. Climbing will not always be a level playing field, but there are always opportunities to improvise and adapt to the situation at hand.