Breakdown
Climber: Natasha Chalmers 5’4”/+0
Wall angle: 10° Overhang > Flat Prow
Holds: Teknik Hoods, Teknik No Shadow Hands, Flathold Revival, Flathold Superstar
RIC: Risk 2, Intensity 3, Complexity 2
The intent for this boulder was to utilize the volumes and fiberglass harmoniously, creating a moderate difficulty experience. Intensity is ranked highest due to the physical nature of the climbing. There are compression movements, directional holds, and precise feet that require the climber to maintain constant shoulder and core tension. Different foot placements and hand sequences offer an element of complexity for the user to navigate. Beta may change based on height or proficiency in certain skills, like heel hooking. Risk is present due to insecure foot placements. The climber is unable to directly toe in for most of the boulder which causes the foot placements to revolve around applying correct amounts of pressure.
Influence/Aesthetic:
The jumping point for this climb was the volume placement. I had the idea for this wall modification before we started setting. There was no particular idea for movement or holds in mind. After putting the volumes up and seeing that they softened the corners of the prow, the idea for a more subtle compression line appeared. Each of the fiberglass holds is paired with one of the three volumes to emphasize their placement on the wall. There are some small areas of overlap between the volumes and fiberglass to help visually solidify the boulder as a single “piece” and prevent breaks in lines.
Hold Selection:
There was a bit of juxtaposition when picking the holds for this boulder. The Teknik Hoods are considered rather juggy for this grade, while the Flathold fiberglass might usually be considered more challenging for moderate-difficulty boulders because of their sloping nature. By utilizing the angle changes the volumes provide, it became easy to decrease the positivity of the Hoods and increase the positivity of the fiberglass.
Under Pressure
Natasha begins by smearing her feet against the pancake holds while tractioning her biceps inward to generate opposition to establish.
Reaching up with her left hand opens her hips and allows her to step her right foot up. This releases pressure from her right hand which can now move upward.
Shoulders and Slopers
Natasha sinks her hips outward to shift her body around the lower volume. Once she is far enough from the wall her left foot can raise.
Her knee drives slightly inward as her arms pull upward to gain the first sloper, while keeping her body positioned directly below it for maximum shoulder engagement.
Taking the Top
Placing a right heel hook lets Natasha begin to shift her weight rightward as she locks off with her left arm.
When Natasha gains the next right hand sloper her body begins to be pulled too far rightward.
She utilizes a left drop knee to equalize tension in her lower body and prevent herself from losing balance as she bumps for the finish.
Final Thoughts
This boulder required quite a bit of tweaking to get to its final iteration because I missed the target grade. While the hand positions stayed exactly the same, all of the hands upgraded in positivity. In most situations, I am flexible with swapping grades around when we are forerunning. However, the integrity of movement can be compromised when climbs are modified to meet what grade they “should’ve” been. This is an example where dialing back the boulder was simple, time efficient, and did not infringe on intended sequencing. An effective analysis of potential modifications is crucial in every team’s routesetting approach; picking the right battles can change the flow of an entire setting day.