Breakdown
Climber: Eddie Pandolfino 6’0”/-2
Wall Angle: 5° Overhang > 5° Slab
Holds: Flathold Thunderbirds, Flathold Elliot Masters, Cheeta Taji, MW Base R75
RIC: Risk 4, Intensity 2, Complexity 2
The assignment for this boulder was to set a blue circuit (v3-5) boulder that had high risk. This was achieved by presenting the climber with a dyno that has a slightly obstructed trajectory and target because of the start being under a roof feature. Additionally, the second section of the climb introduces a slow, technical, no-hands walk across. Intensity is present because of the strength needed to control the swing of the dyno. Complexity comes in the form of nuanced body positioning for the upper slab section.
Influence/Aesthetic:
The concept of this boulder stemmed from giving climbers two contrasting elements of risk. The beginning jump tests the climber's ability to deal with dynamic risk, which involves committing to following through with a fast movement. The latter half situates the climber to progress without using their hands, only feet. Movement must be intentional because there are fewer points of contact the climber can use to readjust. There are loose visual elements to the boulder with the alternating odd and even numbers of holds present in clusters.
Hold Selection:
The profile of the holds and volumes selected was the determining factor for movement. Volumes with a high profile give climbers a larger space to maneuver through when attempting movement. The start holds and volumes were chosen to give the climber a wide base to jump off of, which allows for easy readjustment for subsequent attempts. The large circular Cheeta Taji was utilized to reduce the wall angle to a point where climbers could completely stand up and not need the assistance of their hands for forward progress.
Big Air
The starting position places the climber leaning rightward, requiring them to completely transition their weight leftward to jump off of their left foot.
As the climber transitions weight, they must take their hands off of the start holds to completely straighten their legs and generate power for the jump.
The next hold is gained with both hands to control momentum, while feet are used to fully stop the swing.
Flip Out
A high heel hook begins transitioning the climber’s lower body around the lip. Weight is driven into the foot by bending the knee in conjunction with pulling down with the hands.
Due to the constricted body position, the maximum range the hands can pull down is limited. This causes the climber to flip the hands to press to gain more height.
Stand Tall
Gaining the high left hand allows the climber to fully press out their right hand and create enough space to bring their foot up.
The profile of the footholds is so high that the climber is now able to stand completely square and straight without the assistance of their hands.
Do the Shuffle
The climber’s right hand presses against the wall to provide additional stability while walking their feet towards the next volume.
Placing their foot completely flat on the next volume provides the most stability for the next transition move by maximizing surface area.
Walk the Plank
The change in surface levels requires the climber to leave their left foot in order to completely stand up on their right. This creates a controlled dynamic movement.
The climber’s left foot is brought up to trail behind and keep the body leaning leftward to match the finish.
Final Thoughts
This boulder was particularly difficult for me to set because I ran into “setter’s block” early on. The initial idea I had for the movement did not work at all. I ended up completely stripping the boulder and re-utilizing the holds in a different way to create the sequence that ended up on the final product. It can be easy to fall into a hole of thinking that a boulder “has” to climb a certain way. Abandoning ideas can be frustrating, but taking steps backward can offer new frames of vision and create a more fulfilling final product.