Breakdown

Climber: Eddie Pandolfino 6’0”/-2

Wall Angle: Corner > Flat

Holds: Flathold Thunderbirds, Flathold Revival, Flathold Superstar, Teknik Fat Slopers B, MW Volumes

RIC: Risk 3, Intensity 1, Complexity 3

  • The concept for this boulder revolves around slow and methodical movement. Risk is moderately ranked because there are multiple insecure foot positions that the climber must navigate through. Complexity comes in the form of body positioning and shifting weight correctly through the sloping hand holds. Intensity is negated on this boulder because all of the movements rely on correct body positioning rather than strength and power.

Influence/Aesthetic

  • The initial intent for this climb was to have a jump at the beginning followed by slower movement in the latter half. The jump didn't quite work out so the team decided to scrap the idea in forerunning. We instead emphasized the use of the corner for more pushing and slower movement to have a continuous theme instead of a contrasting one. Each of the three sections of holds is presented in clusters of four to create distinct sections, visually and functionally.

Hold Selection

  • This boulder consists of all slopers and pinches. On flat walls and corners, larger, less directional holds can increase the depth of movement for a climb. Presenting climbers with edges or crimps gives a more obvious guide on the intended direction of use. Slopers and pinches have larger usable surfaces that can be used in multiple directions. This introduces elements of problem-solving with how the climber approaches grabbing the holds, in addition to how they sequence their way through multiple holds.

Turn It Around

sloper push climber stem
  • The climber begins by pressing between their left foot and both hands to establish a stem in the corner.

  • The right foot is brought up against the wall to provide another point of contact and allows the climber to begin pivoting their body leftward.

  • This releases pressure off of the hands, allowing them to release and move to the left.

On the Toes

setting walk across smear
  • Although the left hand can establish on the pinch, the right hand cannot reach far enough to match without the feet moving.

  • The climber’s feet quickly walk through to prevent their body weight from passing too far past their left hand when coming in to match.

  • Gaining the slopers requires the climber to lean rightward and keep their hips low for proper opposition.

Rock the Heel

routesetter heel hook lock off
  • A heel hook is set to bring the climber’s hips upward and progress to the following slopers.

  • The heel hook prevents the climber from getting maximum height so it is swapped to a toe hook to gain the last sloper.

  • Additionally, shifting weight on the toe allows the climber to bring their hips closer to the wall than if they heel hook.

Lined Up

back flag sloper finish
  • The finishing sloper is difficult to hold with both hands, so the climber must shift their weight under it to control the match

  • Backflagging the right leg lets the climber keep their body aligned directly under the hold, creating a position where the right hand can be removed to match because stability is being held with the feet.

Final Thoughts

Similar to my post last week, this was another boulder where an idea had to be completely abandoned to get a more cohesive product. The initial jump movement that was intended was easily breakable by stemming into the corner to reach out to the two opposing pinches. Although it would have been desirable to get the dynamic movement to work, it felt awkward and uncomfortable. Conversely, the stem felt like the most intuitive option. Embracing this unintended movement created a boulder with a stronger thematic thread.

Previous
Previous

Next
Next