Breakdown

Climber: Cassie Sciortino 4’11”/+6

Wall angle: Corner

Holds: Flathold Elliot Masters/Superstar, Teknik Big Tall Rounds, MW Volumes

RIC: Risk 1, Intensity 1, Complexity 4

  • The goal of this boulder was to create a high complexity experience for a beginner climber. The sequence of the boulder is not straightforward visually and there are multiple options for the climber to choose from to reach the top. The corner is a particularly good angle to achieve this objective because it can create situations where the climber is able to completely remove their hands from the wall. This gives them time to think about their next move, all while lowering risk and intensity. 

Influence/Aesthetic

  • I started setting this boulder by putting the Flathold Superstar on top of the green volume. This made a visual focal point to have the boulder revolve around. The first three hands and feet are grouped to create distinct lines that follow the wall angles. The last two holds are mirrored to have the climber use and view them in opposite ways.

Hold Selection:

  • The fiberglass features used on this boulder can be difficult to use on easier climbs because of how sloped they are. However, they become more positive when used in a corner because the climber can push on them. Although the holds on this boulder serve as large hands and feet, it can be difficult for new climbers to figure out the best spots to use on them. This adds a problem-solving aspect to the boulder and will cause users to alter beta throughout the climb if not done correctly.

Starting Off

  • Cassie begins the boulder by pressing between her left foot and right hand to shift her weight leftwards into the corner.

  • After shifting, she is able to gain a higher left hand; this relieves weight from her right hand which allows her to move her right hand up as well.

Palms Down

  • Cassie begins this sequence by bringing her right foot up and dropping her left foot. This keeps her centered in the corner.

  • Once her weight begins shifting to her right foot, she flips both of her hands to press; this moves her body higher into the corner.

  • Now that she is standing in the corner, most of the weight has been taken off her hands.

  • Cassie is now able to bring her left and right hands to the highest point on the holds and press again to bring her right foot up.

Overhead Options

  • Cassie is able to create tension between her left hand and right foot to get a hand foot match on the left handhold.

  • She is now able to reach overhead to the hold next to the finish. This allows her to stabilize and bring her right foot up again.

Finishing Up

  • Cassie begins this sequence too right to reach the finish. Staightening her leg shifts her weight leftwards, while matching on the hold above her provides stability.

  • Once Cassie’s left hand reaches the finish, her legs have enough opposition in the corner that she can relieve all weight from her hands and match the finish.

Final Thoughts

Complexity is an important but challenging aspect of climbing to introduce at earlier grades. It is often beneficial to tailor beginner climbs to be straightforward because success is much easier to measure. However, a fine line needs to be walked between encouraging progress and introducing new concepts. Boulders that require low intensity and risk can ease climbers into thinking about a climb before, during, and after. Developing these critical thinking skills early can improve climbers’ development as they are continually exposed to challenges.

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