Climber: Paul Jung 5’8”/+0
Wall angle: 15° Overhung > Flat
Holds: Urban Plastix Stealth Crimps, Noah Kaiju Hueco 1, Noah Kaiju Hueco 2, Noah Kaiju Roof Sloper 3, SoIlll Fungus Feet
RIC: Risk 2, Intensity 2, Complexity 2
This boulder was created to give the climber a progressive experience. There is no definitive crux, but the moves are of similar intensity. This encourages efficient climbing to retain energy throughout the entire boulder. There is a small amount of risk on this boulder because the feet are slightly sloped and there is a committing heel hook move. Complexity is added through body positioning and the directional shift halfway through the climb.
Influence/Aesthetic:
On this particular setting day, everyone was given an assignment for the first boulder. My task was to not have any holds in groups of three, or in a straight line. This is a common “go-to” in my setting because functionally it tends to create hand over hand movement, while it is often aesthetically pleasing to group objects together in threes. I decided to place the larger holds at the beginning, middle, and end of the climb to create three visual sections. The smaller crimps were then woven in between these points to contrast the size of the larger holds, and to show a clear path for the climb. The textured foot set was chosen to create distinction from the smooth hand holds.
Hold Choice:
The holds for this boulder were chosen to create a visual and functional dichotomy. The crimps bring an element of finger strength to the boulder, while putting in the larger positive slopers does not let the climber get too comfortable with the grip type. This causes the boulder to remain progressive, but still challenges the climber by introducing cruxes based on grip preferences.
First Steps
Paul begins by dropping his left hip into the wall. This allows him to drive harder with his left foot when moving upwards and lessen the distance he has to move to the second crimp.
The right hand start hold is substantially better than the left, encouraging Paul to bump his left hand to the next crimp.
Once he reaches the second crimp Paul is able to switch his feet. He then creates tension between his left hand and right foot to pull towards the third crimp.
It is important to note that Paul continually drops the foot that he is not pulling with to stay square to the wall.
Navigating Slopers
Paul gains the third crimp with his right hand. He is now able to walk his feet up to move to the next hold
He initially only walks his right foot up and begins to cross to the sloper. However, his left foot is too far from his left hand to gain a positive grip.
This is remedied by bringing his left foot to the starting crimp. This allows Paul to drive to the best part of the hold and create proper tension between his left foot and hand.
Keep It Micro
Now that Paul is square he is able to bring his left foot up again and move to the next crimp with his right hand.
He then walks his left foot up a third time and brings his right foot to the green volume to generate opposition with both feet; this allows him to drive into the next slopey left hand.
Paul is unable to grab the positive part of the hold from this position. However, he puts his thumb in the bolt-hole of the hold to pinch it. The thumb engagement gives him a slightly better grip.
Keep It Micro Pt. 2
Paul swaps his feet to bring his right hip into the wall; this shortens the distance he needs to travel to the next right hand and helps to maintain stability by keeping his body in line with the rightward direction of the crimps.
He swaps his feet back to square up. Now that his right hand is higher, he is able to move his left hand to the more positive part of the hold.
Setting the Heel
Paul brings his right foot inward again and emulates a near-identical move as the previous to gain the final crimp.
His right foot options are now exhausted which causes him to keep his rightward position and place a heel hook in the 2nd large sloper.
Finishing Up
Paul turns his foot completely parallel to the wall. This helps him generate more force when pulling with his heel because it sinks farther into the hold.
Once his weight shifts leftwards he is able to gain the finish hold with his left hand. This allows him to bring his right foot to the other side of the sloper and create tension between his two feet to match the finish.
Paul hits the viewers with a cheeky power-point to show his excitement.
Final Thoughts
Lower risk boulders are a great way for climbers to measure progress. The crux of this boulder will vary from climber to climber. While some might think that the committing heel hook is the hardest move, others might feel the tic-tac movement on crimps is fatiguing or that the slopers are hard to grip. These climbs have an important place in the gym because they can serve as a benchmark for climbers to test themselves. Doing a dyno can be fun, but it examines a hyper-specialized skillset. A progressive experience can give climbers more bite-sized challenges to overcome.