Breakdown
Climber: Eddie Pandolfino 6’0”/-2
Wall Angle: Corner > Flat > 10° Overhang
Holds: Flathold Tsunamis, Flathold Borderlines , MW Volumes
RIC: Risk 5, Intensity 4, Complexity 1
This boulder was designed as a competition-style boulder. This type of boulder usually has high attributes of risk to create definitive fall points for climbers. This was achieved by having insecure feet, as well as the low-percentage jump in the middle of the boulder. Intensity is ranked high because of the strength required to control the dynamic movement. There are no sequence variations on this boulder, which places complexity on the low end.
Influence/Aesthetic:
The concept for this climb started from the desire to set a particular dynamic movement. I wanted to use the small corner on the left side to create a situation where the climber felt “stuck” and had to release a great amount of tension to move out of it. The grey volumes were particularly important in creating functional movement by complimenting the wall angles, while also helping to divide the climb into distinct visual sections.
Hold Selection:
Selecting holds for dynamic movements can be especially challenging. The first three holds to the climber’s right have to be positive enough to establish into the correct position for the jump. However, if they are too positive there is a chance that the climber is able to release their tension slower. This could result in the movement being done in a more static or slower way than intended.
Setting Up
Compression must be maintained between the semi-sloping right hands and positive left hands to begin walking the feet up.
Once the highest right hand is reached, the right foot can be brought up to the second grey volume.
This tense position is able to be released by placing a toe hook on the second left hand; this allows the left hand to be moved freely, which squares the body to the wall.
Flying High
To continue forward progress, the left hand is brought laterally over the body to the next highest hold.
Controlling this hold with the left hand allows for a right hand match, but this places a majority of weight rightwards.
The tension created by this weight shift is released by dropping the toe hook.
The release is accompanied by simultaneously using the hands to control the direction of the momentum towards the next hold.
Last Push
After stabilizing and getting a high left foot, the next hold can be reached by leaning rightwards and keeping the hips centered.
The feet are brought directly underneath, which results in a tight position that is difficult to move slowly out of.
The legs and arms need to be used in unison to generate enough momentum to reach the finish.
Final Thoughts
Experimenting with dynamic movement can be an effective way of getting climbers out of their comfort zone. Once climbers begin to master the basics of dynamic movement, it is essential to propose new movements in different packages. Competition-style boulders can help climbers navigate through risky, low-percentage movements while giving them a sample of the competition experience.