Breakdown
Climber: Natasha Chalmers 5’4”/+0
Wall angle: 45° Overhang
Holds: Kilter Winter Kaiju Roof Sloper, Kilter Winter Kaiju Sloper, Kilter Teagan Kaiju Stalactite, Kilter Medium Winter Incut Fins, Urban Plastix Fins 2XL, Urban Plastix Ribbons Crimps
RIC: Risk 1, Intensity 4, Complexity 2
This boulder was designed to test the climber’s overall strength. I wanted to approach this by having the climber rely on their body positioning to use a mix of crimps and jugs on a steep overhang. Intensity is high on this boulder because of the physical strength required to pull through the moves. There is mild complexity because of the heel hook and challenging cluster of holds at the start. Risk is low because the movement is compact and the hands and feet are positive throughout.
Influence/Aesthetic:
This boulder started with the placement of the hands and feet at the beginning to create a visual focal point, drawing the climber in. The grouping of holds presents the theme of body positioning early in the boulder. The remaining parts came from a functional viewpoint. The climb was created to be a “benchmark” of the grade. This provides users with a test of strength and fundamental climbing ability to determine how they are faring at a certain grade.
Hold Selection:
The holds from this boulder were picked from necessity, as there were few holds in pink to choose from that day. Although not an assigned challenge, it can be useful for routesetters to work with a slimmer hold selection to improve their adaptability and improvisation skills. This climb uses a variety of holds of different positivity which tests climbers on different grip types and body positions. This rewards a climber that has been working on becoming proficient in multiple aspects.
First Steps
Natasha begins the boulder by placing her left foot and bringing her hips close to the wall; this sets her up for multiple moves in the sequence.
The first sloper next to the start is used as a bump to reach the more positive crimp. This lays her body horizontal to her foot creating tension between the two points.
She releases this tension by bringing her right foot up to weight a heel hook; this, along with tracking her hand to the first sloper, allows her to generate towards the next hold.
Twists & Turns
Natasha now releases the heel and drops her right hip into the wall to lean rightwards to match the leftward facing hold.
Her feet continue to move upwards on the left to maintain tension against her hands; she also keeps her right hip close to keep her weight centered under the next right hand crimp.
Taking the Top
Natasha brings her left foot up to oppose her right hand and grabs the intermediate left hand crimp to bump to the finish hold.
She brings her right foot up to shift her weight leftwards and underneath the finish to match.
Final Thoughts
Setting “benchmark” boulders can give climbers a measuring stick to track their progress. All of the climbs of a given grade in the gym will never feel the exact same difficulty. However, certain climbs can highlight a majority of the skills needed to climb at a grade. This can come in the form of hold size, physical strength required for moves, advanced techniques, and many other variables. Completing boulders that match this criteria can help climbers build confidence and master the skills needed to break into a new grade.