Breakdown

Climber: Eddie Pandolfino 6’0”/-2

Wall Angle: Flat > 5° Overhang

Holds: Kilter Noah Kaiju Roof Sloper 1, Enix Sandbags/Micro Crimps (Discontinued)

RIC: Risk 5, Intensity 3, Complexity 1

• The goal for this set was to create a problem that has direct and distinct cruxes with few moves in between. Risk is ranked highest because the two hardest movements require insecure body positioning. The first of these movements is the jump at the beginning, which tests the climber’s accuracy and ability to dynamically shift weight over an insecure foothold. The second crux contrasts the first with the climber trusting an insecure smear while on poor holds to perform a static foot raise. Intensity is present because of the strength and tension needed to control the dynamic movement and the small crimps. Complexity is low because there is little beta variance or nuance.

Influence/Aesthetic:

• This boulder grounds itself in simplicity and minimalism; it does not give the climber any superfluous options to complete the problem. The start and finish holds are identical to represent a shared quality of ease and relief as they are the most positive holds on the climb. The large hold in the middle paired with the smaller finger jug signifies the midpoint of the boulder. Empty space between these three points helps to parallel the theme of minimalism through form and function.

Hold Selection:

• The holds for this boulder were chosen to give climbers an equal sense of comfort and discomfort. The smooth Enix Jugs and Kilter Kaiju provide soft, secure grips on which to perform the larger movements. To contrast this, the Enix micro crimps and smear feet encourage climbers to move slower and more methodically to mitigate risk. Presenting these contrasting hold choices can jolt climbers into changing styles and mental approaches throughout a boulder.

Setting Up

• The climber begins by using the underclings to create pressure between their hands and feet to maintain positioning on the small sloping foot chips.

• Gaining a higher left hand allows the climber to shift their torso upward and begin moving their feet higher.

• A high right foot creates a high central point for the climber to shift their weight over and have upward movement.

Release and Catch

• Sinking the shoulders and hips low and then pulling weight through the right hand and foot generates upward momentum.

• At the apex of the movement, the climber straightens their leg before their hips fall too far away from the wall for extra height.

• Gaining the rightward facing sloper stops the climber’s momentum and allows them to get a high foot before crossing into the next right hand.

Smear of Fear

• Crossing inward with the right hand keeps the climber’s shoulders engaged to swap feet and shift weight out leftward to gain the next left-hand crimp.

• The left foot moves up to smear, which squares the hips as the right foot releases; static movement maintains balance as the right foot smears the wall for support.

High Knees

• A high right foot provides stability as the hips are brought close to the wall to point the knee rightward, bringing the hips in.

• The left arm locks off fully, shifting the climber’s chest inward and upward, bringing the right arm in reach of the finish.

Taking the Top

• The climber bumps their hand up to the top right edge of the finish as their left foot releases to provide a more positive grip for the match.

Final Thoughts

This climb was set a few weeks ago, but taking some time in between setting and writing has made my perspective on the movement and vision for this boulder a bit more clear. Initially, this was a product of frustration as the original idea was easily cheatable due to the right sidewall (not visible in the video). I took a quick, barebones approach to resetting the climb and leaned more into simple movement rather than complexity. While this is contrary to my usual approach of setting high hold and movement volume, I would like to lean more into a “less is more” mentality in the future.