Breakdown

Climber: Sid Pinto 5’9”/+1

Wall angle: 10° Overhang > Flat

Holds: Cheeta BoomRamps, Cheeta Boomerangs, MW Volumes  

RIC: Risk 5, Intensity 4, Complexity 3

• The intent for this boulder was to set a multifaceted coordination movement. Risk is high because of the commitment and correlative motion required to complete the paddle dyno and the slow, tenuous body positioning during the end sequence. Intensity is present during the powerful first move, controlling the swing from the dyno, and mantling between the two volumes. Complexity is moderate because there will be some micro beta adjustments depending on specific strengths and body type, but the general sequence will remain largely similar.

Influence/Aesthetic:

• Inspiration for this climb came from setting the specific paddle dyno movement. With this in mind, the holds and volumes for the paddle were placed first to ensure proper distancing. This creates a clean feature in the middle of the wall with 3 large holds and 2 volumes. The cluster at the beginning draws some attention by creating a more chaotic space but does not serve as the focal point of the boulder due to its placement away from the angle breaks of the wall. The top of the boulder contrasts the beginning and middle by offering a minimalist approach, but still drawing the eye through impossibly thin slots.

Hold Selection:

• This is arguably the most important factor in setting coordination moves that require navigating through multiple holds. The Cheeta BoomRamps are useful for setting dynamic movements because they offer flat, angled ledges with no lip; requiring climbers to have proper body tension when traversing through them. The volumes used for this boulder allow the less positive BoomRamps to be utilized by making them just good enough for the climber to redirect their momentum through them. The holds and volumes here are high profile to keep the climber a comfortable distance from the wall to perform these moves and prevent their legs or arms from knocking into other holds.

Pogo to Toe

• Sid begins the boulder by smearing his left foot and swinging his right, this generates upwards momentum while bringing his hips close to the wall.

• At the apex of his swing, he releases his right hand to catch the next hold.

• Sid is “stuck” because his arms are at a great extension. He uses a left toe hook to generate tension against his right hand which allows him to take weight off of his left hand and move it upward.

Flying High

• Sid establishes his hands slightly higher and straightens his legs completely before jumping.

• He releases his legs in conjunction with locking off his arms to generate upward momentum, but the next hold is not positive enough to control statically.

• Paddling through the next fiberglass hold redirects his weight rightward and down to the second fiberglass hold on the volume.

Tracking Back

• The leftward direction of the third fiberglass hold lets Sid stop his momentum and campus back to the second, while establishing a high right heel to bring his hands and hips higher.

• Swapping his heel to a toe lets him shift his hips and torso upward while locking his arms off.

• At the maximum height of his lock-off, Sid flips his hands to press and begins mantling.

Slim Space

• Sid is put in a restrictive position because of how close his hands and feet are together.

• Straightening his left arm and right leg lets him rotate his body inward and elongate his torso while bringing his arm overhead.

• This newfound space and stability provided by his right hand on the side of the volume lets his left leg raise.

Taking the Top

• Sid uses the hold before the finish to slightly drop his right knee farther inward and maintains this position to match the finish.

Final Thoughts

This climb started as an attempt to push my volume stacking exploits from previous weeks to the next level. Unfortunately, I got a bit overzealous and the stack I tried to execute proved to be a safety issue so the crew and I decided to take it down. The movement intended for the initial volume stack was a dynamic one, so I took this and applied it to the second iteration of the boulder. I was satisfied with how this came out because I had not set a downward redirect like this before. I would like to extend this movement further to a double paddle similar to the movement seen here, but this was a favorable start to learning this movement.