Breakdown
Climber: Cassie Sciortino 4’11”/+6
Wall Angle: Flat
Holds: Thrive Climbing Blocks, Rock Candy Blockus Feature, Teknik Geoshardlings
RIC: Risk 2, Intensity 2, Complexity 2
This boulder is designed to test the climber’s balance while grabbing micro edges. Risk comes in the form of proper foot placement and balance. There are smear feet in the beginning and the climber must make multiple adjustments on the larger feet while utilizing small crimps. Intensity is present because of the grip strength required to control and move off of the small holds. Multiple hand and foot positioning options via clustering offer a form of complexity through accessibility.
Influence/Aesthetic:
The composition of this climb forms from combining micro and macro features. The bigger cubes and pinches group together to contrast the size of the smaller screw-ons. Assembling the screw-ons in a similar manner helps to fill space on the wall as well as emphasize this gathered geometric theme. The determinate factor for movement is giving exceptionally large feet with a disparity in hand size. This encourages footwork over finger strength.
Hold Selection:
Geometric holds can be particularly interesting when used in conjunction with each other. The most useful aspect of holds with linear edges is the ability for them to block each other. In this case, blocking was utilized to reduce grabbable and steppable surfaces. This gives holds more unique properties than using them individually. Blocking can be useful in stimulating intentional movement through directionality.
Smear n’ Flip
Cassie begins by bringing her right hand and left foot up, creating opposition for her left hand to flip into the bottom of the first pinch.
She repeats the process on the right side by creating higher opposition with her right foot to flip her right hand.
High Stepper
Cassie is unable to move from the double underclings because of the amount of pressure on her feet.
She releases her left foot and high steps; this shifts her body closer to the wall and slightly upward by bringing her hips in.
This allows her to gain a higher left hand.
Press It Out
Almost all of Cassie’s weight sits on her left foot, making it difficult to move her right hand.
Flipping her hand to press begins to move her body upward, extending her leg. This creates enough space beneath her to switch feet and move her right hand.
Slow and Steady
Cassie fully straightens her legs and maintains her position directly below the crimps, which provides the best balance.
She matches feet and then moves her right foot to the second pinch to create an anchor point for the next move.
Shifting Over
Cassie locks off her left arm to shift weight over her right foot and grab the next right hand.
She matches her feet to keep positioning directly under her hands and flags her left foot to balance against moving her right hand up again.
Taking the Top
Cassie swaps her right foot to flag, which keeps her balanced under the finish hold to match.
Final Thoughts
This was an enjoyable boulder to set because using blockers in unique ways can be a stimulating mental challenge while routesetting. The dimensions of a hold are static, but introducing different variables around them can create unique grips that can test climbers in more varied ways. Blocking or modifying holds is also a technique to spice up setting with the same grips repeatedly. Commercial setting is condusive to reusing holds and this can get monotonous. Clustering, blocking, and modifying are effective in creating new puzzles for routesetters and climbers alike.