Breakdown
Climber: Blu Blumenthal 5’5”/+5
Wall Angle: 5° Overhang > Flat
Holds: Flathold Tsunami, Flathold Thunderbirds eGrips Main Dish, eGrips Bubble Wrap 2Tex Crimps Teknik No Shadow Tip Toes
RIC: Risk 3, Intensity 2, Complexity 3
This boulder combines balance and body positioning to create a slow, methodical experience. Risk is moderate because most of the feet are smears or are highly directional, encouraging technical positioning. Intensity is present due to the constrained wrestling sequence in the beginning and the small size of the crimps in the second half. Complexity presents itself through the usage of clusters to give variable sequences and blockers to emphasize slow, deliberate sequencing.
Influence/Aesthetic:
The goal for this set was to make the flat wall climb with as much dimension as possible. The jumping point for this was creating the cluster at the bottom of the climb. This draws the climber in through visual overload. They ask questions of “What is that?” or “How do I do this?” before pulling onto the wall. Providing this mysterious element at the bottom of the boulder lets climbers make multiple attempts quickly, expediting progress. Introducing the linear blocked crimps at the end fosters a feeling of approachable familiarity that offers relief to the climber after the initial puzzle.
Hold Selection:
All of the holds were chosen to accentuate the profile of the wall. The first four holds extend from the wall quite far, which creates a situation where the climber must manipulate their center of gravity to move around them in different directions. Gaining positioning above these starting holds lets them act as large platforms for the feet, warranting a smaller size of handhold. The last four hands are blocked to create small slots, making them difficult to match or move dynamically to.
Rocking Over
Blu starts to shift her weight over her right heel while bringing her hands and torso rightward.
Gaining the undercling lets her turn her body straight and releases some of the weight from her right heel hook.
Up and Out
Blu straightens her leg while maintaining tension with her left arm to release her restricted position.
Once she stands fully, her right hand is able to move freely and gain the next crimp.
High Stepper
Blu swaps her feet on the start hold and brings her right foot to the volume. This provides a point of opposition for her right hand.
Leg Up
The opposition provided by her right foot allows her to open her chest to the wall and move her left hand higher.
Blue is able to put even more pressure on her right foot with both of her hands opposing it. She releases all weight from her left foot and moves it upward.
Move It Over
Blu centers her hips low with a high left foot and begins tracking her hands leftward to shift weight away from her right foot.
Taking the Top
Blu uses a right foot smear to assist in straightening her left leg and bringing her hips slightly higher.
She grabs the finish and aligns her weight above her left foot to keep her balance centered for the match.
Final Thoughts
This specific zone can be difficult to set because of the close proximity of the side walls. If a climb is too far left or right on the face, the side walls can be used to climb the whole boulder like a stem or introduce other beta breaks. Setting a boulder in the middle of the zone alleviates most of these issues. While this doesn't leave an abundance of space for horizontal movement, the multiple small angle changes lend themselves well to technical, vertical climbing. Although only one boulder was able to fit comfortably on the “pure” version of this space for this set, singularity brings novelty to familiar angles.