Breakdown

Climber: Eddie Pandolfino 6’0”/-2

Wall Angle: 5° Overhang > Flat

Holds: eGrips Bubble Wrap Big Wave, eGrips Bubble Wrap Crescent Rails  

RIC: Risk 2, Intensity 3, Complexity 3

• The goal for this boulder was to have the climber use the large bubble wrap wave feature multiple ways to navigate through the climb. Intensity and complexity are both ranked equally. Intensity is present because of the shoulder strength and mobility needed to get on top of the feature. There is a moderate amount of complexity due to the particular body positioning needed to turn the feature and maintain balance for the finish. There is a slight amount of risk because improper heel or foot placements for critical moves can result in falls.

Influence/Aesthetic:

• The idea for this boulder initially stemmed from modifying this particular angle. The volumes were placed close together to create an eye-catching feature, while these constrictions worked to block certain surfaces on the volumes to make them ungrabbable. The large bubble wrap wave accentuates the volumes by adding to their profile but visually contrasts them. The remaining smaller holds are paired and angled to oppose each other and accentuate directional body positioning.

Hold Selection:

• The inspiration for hold usage on this boulder was to have the bubble wrap feature be utilized as much as possible. When putting larger holds on the wall I like to challenge myself by creating movement that interacts with them in multiple ways. In this instance, the climber navigates through the feature by using it as a hand, setting a heel hook on it, and standing on top of it. This is a useful tool for maximizing movement in specific sections of climbs.

Hand Over Hand

• The climber starts by establishing a high left foot and smearing on the wall to gain the bubble wrap wave.

• The leftward direction of the hands causes the climber to lean rightward, while moving their hands and feet upward to bring their hips in line with the wave feature.

Rock It Over

• The climber sets a high left heel hook, which allows them to bring their hips close to the wall and begin shifting their body upward.

• Once the climber’s left hand reaches the next gaston, it begins to release pressure from the heel hook, letting the right foot come up as the climber’s weight shifts farther left.

• After standing, the climber can bring their right hand up to bump their left hand to the finish. However, the finish hold is too far left and not positive enough to control from this position.

Slow Shifts

• The climber walks their feet rightward and sets a heel hook on the corner of the volumes. This prevents weight from falling too far leftward once the right hand is released.

• The tension created between the left hand and right heel allows the climber to cross their right hand across the body to finish.

Final Thoughts

This was a boulder that I would consider generally successful for a commercial gym. However, there are a few changes (some possible, some impossible) that would have made it a more fulfilling product for me. Initially, there were only the volumes and the bubble wrap wave on the boulder. This would have lent itself to a harder and more complex puzzle that fit more with my initial vision of having a single standalone feature to climb. It also would have been ideal if this boulder was set on one of the gym’s taller walls because engaging movement could have been set out of the ending positions. Tempering and adapting these preliminary ideas imparts itself to creating a boulder that more users could experience the intended movement on.