Breakdown

Climber: Lance Chou 5’5”/+3

Wall angle: Flat

Holds: Kumiki Puzzles

RIC: Risk 1, Intensity 1, Complexity 5

• This boulder was created to test a climber’s problem-solving ability. Complexity is ranked highest on this boulder because the sequence is difficult to read. The user is unable to determine where certain holds are usable from the ground and there are a plethora of options. Intensity is ranked low because of the positivity of the crimps and mild wall angle. Risk on this boulder can be completely averted by correct body positioning.

Influence/Aesthetic

• The design for this climb came from the desire to create something that was visually overwhelming for the climber. Upon first glance, some parts of the boulder appear “impossible” because of the unapparent nature of the handholds. This creates a situation where the climber figures out many aspects about the boulder while physically interacting with it. Additionally, the linear nature of the boulder lends itself to twisting and turning movements.

Hold Choice

• The puzzle piece holds were chosen for their visual and functional qualities. Visually grouping them together adds to the sense of confusion experienced by the climber. They are presented with a multitude of options but only a handful are viable. This is complemented by the holds being functional from specific sides. If the climber attempts to use one of the slick or less positive surfaces, they are likely to readjust or fall.

First Steps

• Lance begins the boulder by moving his right hand up to begin shifting his weight over his right foot.

• He is now able to stand upwards and reach his left hand higher; this keeps his body leaning against the rightward direction of the hands.

• Bringing his left foot up and right hand in allows Lance to create opposition and move his left hand to the next cluster of holds.

Choosing Wisely

• Lance brings his right foot up to maintain his leftward positioning and shuffles his hands through the next holds.

• He moves his left hand to the final cluster while keeping his left foot directly below to draw his hips closer to the wall.

• Lance centers his right foot to aid him in twisting his entire body leftwards; this sets his body at the same directionality of the finish hold.

Tricky Top

• Lance grabs the finish but its surface area is small and this puts his body in an extreme rightward position.

• He fully straightens his legs to maintain tension and presses his left foot against the wall for an additional point of contact.

• Combining these elements leads to crossing his left hand under to match the finish.

Final Thoughts

It is a routesetter’s job to give climbers challenges to overcome. While the most obvious hurdles are physical, mental ones can be the most difficult. Presenting a boulder that poses questions before, during, and after climbing can be overwhelming for the user. However, if designed properly, interacting with a boulder can provide answers to the climber’s questions and improve their mental dynamic for the future.