Breakdown
Climber: Joseph Min 5’5”/+0
Wall Angle: Flat
Holds: 360 Holds Quarters, Teknik No Shadow Tip Toes
RIC: Risk 1, Intensity 2, Complexity 3
The objective was to create a volume only climb that was accessible to beginner/intermediate climbers. Complexity is ranked highest because the boulder is intimidating and difficult to read from the ground. Climbing through the obtuse volumes can place the body in positions that need to be adjusted on the fly. Intensity is present because of the shoulder strength and core engagement required to do the stand up move. However, most of the intensity can be lessened by proper foot positioning. Risk is an interesting player in this boulder. The perceived risk is high because of the overwhelming presence of the volumes. Climbers may think that they will be stepping on them in insecure ways. The actual risk is quite low, as the usable surface area of the volumes is flat, allowing the climber to more easily shift weight through their feet.
Influence/Aesthetic:
The initial influence for this boulder came from reinterpreting a formation of these specific volumes I saw online. The idea was to create a grabbable slot in the middle of the four quarters and see where the movement trends. The volumes needed to be placed slightly offset to create enough of a gap for a slot. This positioning left some of the flat angles of the volumes exposed which gave shape to the rest of the line. Aesthetically this is a striking boulder because there is a distinct shape on the wall that takes up a excessive amount of space. Combining this with the absence of handholds gives the climber an overwhelming amount of questions on how to complete the boulder.
Hold Selection:
This idea was specific to these quarter circle volumes. It is becoming increasingly popular for hold companies to make volumes that are intended to be used as a set. This allows routesetters to block specific edges more easily and play with larger or smaller shapes depending on how many of the volumes are combined. I usually find this specific set of volumes rather boring if they are used individually, or not stacked together in some manner. However, combining them in the correct ways can create visually and mentally stimulating climbing experiences.
Up and Over
Joseph begins the boulder by smearing his right foot on the wall. This provides a third point of contact and helps him engage his shoulders.
He shifts his hips upward to place a left heel hook. Engaging this heel hook allows him to begin locking off his right arm.
Gastoning the top of the volume with his left hand shifts Josephs weight farther over his left foot.
Stand and Deliver
Once Joseph’s hips are aligned with his left foot and right hand he flips his right hand to press to continue his upward motion.
He bumps his left hand slightly higher to open his chest and create space for his right leg to raise.
When both feet are established Joseph can release weight from his hands and straighten his legs to stand.
Play the Slot
Joseph steps his right foot into the slot to create a midpoint to shift his weight over when leaning towards the finish.
He shifts his weight right while flagging his left foot back to counterbalance his weight when matching the finish.
Final Thoughts
Grading volume-centric boulders can be difficult due to the nuanced nature of movement and the emphasis on problem-solving ability. Our goal for this climb was to create something aesthetic and cryptic that a multitude of users could experience. There was no specific number grade assigned after forerunning, just a circuit grade. While difficulty ranges based on the climber’s familiarity with the style of climbing, the intent is to encourage interaction. Striking visual cues merging with the absence of grade can put climbers in the mindset of, “Why don’t I just try it?” Removing the performance indicators allows people to be more forgiving of themselves when approaching abstract concepts and often leads to pleasantly surprising results.