Breakdown

Climber: Eddie Pandolfino 6’0”/-2

Wall Angle: 45° Overhang 

Holds: Enix Sandbags (Discontinued), SoIll Smooth Super 2, Kilter Noah Kaiju Roof Sloper 1, Metolius Basic Edges, eGrips Jibber Jabber Super Jug  

RIC: Risk 3, Intensity 4, Complexity 1

• The goal for this boulder was to create a physical experience that is accompanied by low percentage movement. Intensity is high because of the grip strength and power needed to navigate through the sequences. There are sections where the climber has to campus or do deep lock-offs to gain the next hold. Risk is moderate because of the blockers that have been added to most of the hand holds. This encourages precise and calculated movement. If the climber over or underestimates distances between holds it can result in an unsuccessful attempt. Complexity is low because there is little sequence variation and the boulder is easily readable.

Influence/Aesthetic:

• The inspiration for this boulder came from expanding on the campus boulders I have been experimenting with in the past. Although the second half of the boulder is not a campus sequence, it shares the dynamic and power themes. The sequence is simple and takes a “what you see is what you get” approach. There are no tricks, just a strength barrier of entry. Aesthetically all of the holds are smooth (with the exception of the finish). The blockers help to fill additional space on the wall and create functional nuance through the addition of precision. This climb takes a more functional vein to accomplish a vision for the movement.

Hold Selection:

• The positivity of holds on this boulder is indicative of how the movement will present itself. The holds for the campus movements must be positive enough to generate momentum, but not so good that the climber can bring their feet high enough to establish more than two points of contact. Slightly sloping holds with a lip accomplish this nicely because they provided a slightly rounded edge that is not positive enough to crimp. Additionally comfortizes the movement for easier subsequent attempts. The crimps for the second section are slightly incut but are distanced to put the climber in an extended position when grabbed. This prevents matching and encourages broad sweeping movements.

Small Target

• The climber begins by engaging their shoulders to establish. This is done in conjunction with swinging the legs slightly leftward to begin pushing the body right.

• At the apex of their lock off the climber reaches their right hand out to gain the second sloper.

• They position their hips and legs underneath their right hand to improve shoulder stability and to keep their weight underneath their right hand.

• Once the body fully shifts tension releases for the right hand allowing it to move upward to the slot.

Bear Down

• The climber establishes their left foot to square their hips. This provides an additional point of contact so weight can be released from the right hand, allowing it to move upward.

• The climber’s left foot provides a point to shift their weight over as the right arm locks off and upward towards the next crimp.

Crossed Up

• Gaining the left-hand puts the climber’s body in a position of extension. Their body cannot shift any farther over their left foot or hand.

• Placing a right heel hook reframes the body to be right facing, this opens the climber’s chest and hips to the wall which creates space for the right hand to cross over.

• Once the climber’s hands are positioned closer together they can utilize their left foot to release weight from the heel hook and turn it into a right toe.

Swoop In

• The climber uses their legs to generate momentum as the right hand stabilizes the arcing trajectory of the left hand moving to gain the finish.

Final Thoughts

Campus movements have been increasing in popularity recently. Many competitive teams have been using larger holds on spray walls to encourage more flowing and dynamic footless sequences. Although some view campusing as a brutish and unflattering way to climb, it requires nuance like any other climbing technique. The ability to quickly engage the shoulders and hands while using the core and lower body to stabilize are skills that are invaluable in the sport. When executed correctly, the climber looks almost weightless. While I never thought I would gain inspiration from my recent training on the campus board, it has me thinking more about the potential of campus moves on commercial and competition boulders.