Breakdown
Climbers: Blu Blumenthal 5’5”/+5, Sid Pinto 5’9”/+1, Hans Ma 6’1”/-1, Eddie Pandolfino 6’0”/-2
Wall Angle: Flat
Holds: Rockwerx Volumes, Cheeta Holds BoomJumps
RIC: Risk 3, Intensity 1, Complexity 3
The intent for this boulder was to create an experience that provided an introduction to risk and complexity. Using volumes as hands and feet help to elevate risk by requiring the climber to smear and carefully choose limb placements to prevent slipping. Complexity translates through the visual appearance of the boulder. The cluster of volumes does not offer a single or distinct path to the top. This lets the climber adjust to a multitude of different beta options that suit their preference. Intensity is low because the climber’s positioning is dictated by their feet and there are multiple sections where the climber can effectively rest.
Influence/Aesthetic:
This is a continuation of the volume stacking experiments I have been doing. This is the most complex one I have done because of the overlaps and number of volumes used. The base idea came from the desire to create a fanning effect with the volumes. This concept evolved as I was setting because I noticed that a double overlap could be created by butting the volumes up against each other. This blocked certain usable surfaces and gave more visual depth when observing the boulder. I was satisfied with how this stack came out but felt it could've been better utilized on a slightly steeper wall and placed more towards the middle of the wall to get more full-value movement.
Hold Selection:
As mentioned previously, the diamond volumes are crucial in this stack because of their ability to be placed back to back and overlap. Their long profiles place the climber’s body a far distance from the wall, which allows them to balance easily. If they are too close there is a risk they will bump themselves away with their shoulders or chest. The Cheeta BoomJumps play well with the volumes because they offer a similar function of offering a large surface area but not a distinct place to grab. They also encourage slower movement because of their sloping shape.
Start the Walk
Blu begins by stemming her feet between the wall and the corner of the first volume. This creates tension against her underclinging hands.
She reacher her right hand up to unload her hands. This higher right hand allows her to shift her weight rightward and walk her feet up.
Don’t Stop the Walk
Sid places his right foot on the highest profile corner of the volume. This places his body far enough away from the wall that he can transition his weight far right. He switches hands to grab the first fiberglass hold.
He brings his hips leftward and close to the wall. This creates space to raise his right leg to the higher volume and prevents losing balance from traveling too far rightward.
Setting Up
The climber matches the first fiberglass undercling and shifts their weight over their right foot. This begins to open the climber’s chest and hips.
Releasing the left hand allows the climber to square their chest and hips and shift their gaze upward.
Press for Success
Hans dynamically shifts his weight over his right foot by pulling inward with his right hand in conjunction with pushing off his right foot.
He presses his left hand upward to slow his momentum and create tension between his left hand and right foot.
This maintains his balance for the finish match.
Final Thoughts
This boulder is in an easily visible part of the gym, so I have seen more people trying it than usual. It has been amazing to see how many different people of varying ability levels have been attempting this climb. It is not often that there is a (close to) 1:1 translation of curiosity from the routesetter to the climber, or vice versa. It is frequent that certain nuances or sequences are lost, broken, or misunderstood once the boulder is given to the public. Investigation and discovery of movement keep the sport in a constantly renewing state but presenting ideas in a palatable manner is crucial. We can always strive to create a more fluid interaction and understanding between routesetter and climber.