Breakdown
Climber: Eddie Pandolfino 6’0”/-2
Wall Angle: Corner > Flat
Holds: Teknik Fat Lips, Teknik No Shadow Tip Toes, Teknik Screw-On Incuts, MW Volumes, Rockwerx Volumes
RIC: Risk 2, Intensity 2, Complexity 3
This boulder utilizes volume stacking to create a three-dimensional climbing experience. Risk is present because of the technical footwork required to traverse the volumes. Intensity comes in the form of shoulder strength for pressing in the initial stem and mantling the final volumes. Complexity is ranked highest because there are multiple different ways to navigate the boulder. Using volumes as holds gives climbers the ability to use multiple surfaces and find their preferred body positions.
Influence/Aesthetic
Setting began with the initial double-stacked volume cluster to create a distinct feature to climb around. Visually this cluster is quite jarring, as upon closer inspection it looks like the volumes are abnormally suspended from the wall. The volume placement is chaotic, sprawling, and overlapping throughout the space, leaving climbers questioning how to start. However, movement on the boulder contradicts this disorder by enticing slow, technical sequences.
Hold Selection:
High profile volumes are necessary to modify the space sufficiently. All of the stacked volumes need a matching volume to cover the open faces because they are effectively screwed into the wall “backward”. This limits the volumes that can be used. The volumes reduce the depth of the small caved-in area of the wall allowing for a more full-body experience to navigate out of it. There are screw-on holds used to lower the risk on the boulder. This gives climbers more secure foot placements and a discernable path to the top.
Press and Turn
The climber creates tension against the side and pulls with their feet to establish.
Their right hand reaches back to press, which pushes their body up and into the corner by extending their legs.
The left shoulder begins to turn in and rotates the chest towards the volume as the left hand comes to press
Hand Footy
The climber establishes a hand-foot match to alleviate tension from the press. This allows the right hand to move to the far face of the volume and the upper body can begin to become upright.
The climber’s left foot is released as the left hand raises to shift weight rightward and center the body beneath the undercling.
Shifting Sides
The climber’s feet walk through until their right foot is on the far face of the volume.
This shifts the climber’s weight directly below the undercling, allowing more pressure to be generated into the feet.
This pressure, in addition to matching the undercling, lets the climber begin pivoting over their right foot.
Strong Shoulders
As the climber’s weight shifts over their right foot, the highest volume is gained with the right hand to move the body completely rightward.
Their left foot is able to move to the same volume face as the right, shifting the hips higher and allowing the high volume to be matched.
Rocking Over
A high left foot is gained, letting the climber lock their arms off and shift weight upward over the foot.
Once the apex of the lockoff has been reached the right hand flips to press, giving the climber additional force to shift their weight left.
The left leg begins to straighten once the torso comes high enough and weight is released from the bended left leg.
Taking the Top
The climber stands completely straight and uses a right toe hook to keep core engagement and hip alignment for the finish match.
Final Thoughts
Volume stacking is something I have been playing around with recently, and I’ve been quite pleased with the results. Using volumes conventionally helps to change wall angles but it is usually not drastic unless they are incredibly high profile. Stacking gives the opportunity to truly make a space feel three-dimensional and offer climbers nuanced experiences. Additionally, it can give older volumes a new life by utilizing them in ways that are unconventional. I am excited to keep experimenting with stacking and have a few ideas in mind that will further exemplify the usefulness of this technique.