Breakdown
Climber: Malik Moe 5’9”/+5
Wall Angle: 10° Overhang > Flat
Holds: Teknik Big Tall Husky Pinches, Urban Plastix Stealth Small Crimps, eGrips Stealth Dualtex Incuts
RIC: Risk 3, Intensity 4, Complexity 2
The objective of this boulder was to expose the climber to a wide variety of body positions and grip types. The wide-sloping pinches and small directional crimps combined with constricted body positions add elements of intensity. These aspects coupled with the shoulder and core strength required to control the dynamic movement at the end make overall strength the main factor for success. Risk is present in the form of the jumping movement at the end of the boulder. Improper body positioning or accuracy can result in a failed attempt. Complexity is low but there can be subtle variations in beta depending on height and comfort with certain techniques.
Influence/Aesthetic:
The theme of this boulder was presenting a multitude of movements within a simplistic aesthetic. I found that horizontal lines worked well to divide the climb into three sections, starting with pinches, transitioning to crimps, and moving back to pinches. The large surface area of the pinches helps contrast the small crimps to create a micro-macro effect. Additionally, the absence of foot jibs conveys a cleaner look and contains the visual field of the boulder to a smaller section of the wall.
Hold Selection:
Hold choice on this boulder stemmed from my desire to utilize the Teknik husky pinches as slopers instead of true pinches. These holds are so wide that it is difficult for climbers with smaller hands to utilize their thumbs on them. Flipping the pinches and using them as oversized sloping ledges adds some additional functionality to them. In this case, they provide the climber with a multitude of surface areas for foot options to find a unique beta that fits them best.
Get Horizontal
Malik begins by swinging his left foot up to assist in shifting his hips slightly rightward. This allows him to place a heel hook on the farthest pinch.
This creates an anchor point to pivot his hips around. He begins to shuffle his hands right to bring his hips closer to his foot, reducing extension.
He positions his torso beneath the crimps and moves upward once he reaches a squared position.
Up and Over
Once Malik grabs the first crimp he transitions his right heel hook to a toe, this lets him more easily shift his hips upward and inward.
He tracks his hands rightward through the crimps to begin positioning his torso over his feet.
Take Flight
Malik swaps to a left foot once he gains the last crimp with his right hand. This aligns his shoulders and hips.
He pulls through with his right arm while simultaneously straightening his left leg to generate dynamic momentum.
Crossing past his body’s midline causes him to cut his feet. He uses his swing back to slow his momentum and move to the finish.
Final Thoughts
As I keep posting these videos and writeups, I notice that I try to avoid showcasing simple boulders. I often trend towards posting problems that have volumes, fiberglass, blockers, and offer a “new age” function and aesthetic. From a logistical and creative standpoint, it can be difficult to produce boulders that exemplify all of these qualities every week. A majority of our work as routesetters is constructing climbs that offer engaging, varied, functional movement. While this might not be the flashiest or eye-catching boulder, it is one of the best examples of our general output of work. Simplicity can be a valuable tool to distill the fundamentals of movement.